2012 - Echezeaux Grand Cru Echezeaux du Dessus, Cecile Tremblay

There is a lot going on in the 2012 Echezeaux du Dessus. The push and pull of fruit, acidity and minerality is simply mesmerizing. Here the flavors are dark and decidedly somber, with tremendous depth and pure power lurking in the glass. Over time, dark red fruit, spices, white flowers and menthol all come alive, but ultimately the 2012 is a wine of texture, power and precision. This is another exceptionally beautiful wine from Cécile Tremblay.

(100% destemmed; Tremblay's parcel is on the border with Grands-Echezeaux): Deep red-ruby. Raspberry liqueur, smoke and licorice on the nose, lifted by menthol and violet high notes. Juicy and quite backward, even a bit youthfully imploded, showing terrific energy and cut to its utterly seamless raspberry and violet flavors. This wine boasts terrific volume without weight, finishing with noble tannins that spread out horizontally to saturate the palate. Mounts slowly and lingers long on the vibrant, firm-edged back end. Great potential here. (Unfortunately, the Vosne-Romanee Beaumonts had too much lees in suspension to taste on my November visit.)